Andy Altman Photography

Notes from April, 2006 Trip to Central Arizona to Southern Utah

05/28/07

Grand Canyon National Park

When we started planning the trip back in February, the only rooms availability in the park were at the Yavapai Lodge.  The room we ended up with was nothing special, and a ½ mile walk from the rim, but was clean and convenient to the shuttle busses.  We ate our breakfasts at the Yavapai cafeteria.  Again, nothing fancy, but good filling food.  Overall, we were glad we had stayed in the park instead of being further removed in the more modern lodging outside the park.  The El Tovar Hotel or Bright Angel Lodge have more character and are right on the rim - worth the extra money if you plan your vacation far enough in advance.

On our first morning in GCNP, we took the short bus ride to the main visitor’s center, containing nice exhibits and rangers knowledgeable about hikes and trail conditions.  From the visitor’s center, it was a short walk to Mather Point, our first unrushed view of the canyon.  We followed the Rim Trail to Yavapai Point.  As its name implies, the trail follows the rim of the canyon, often just 10 feet or so from a drop of hundreds of feet.  The flat trail was in great shape and the views truly spectacular - highly recommended.

Photos from Mather Point, Yavapai Point and Rim Trail

Mark & Nathan                                                                     Hope         

From Yavapai Point, we continued on the Rim Trail and then looped back to our room and lunch at the cafeteria.  Along one stretch of the tail, two guys let us know that they had just passed six elk close to the trial.  Unfortunately, the elk had wondered off when we passed.  A later group of mule deer offered some consolation.

After lunch and some family debate, we decided to hike a ways into the canyon on the South Kaibab Trail.  Compared to the Bright Angel Trail (the other main rim to river route), it is steeper, but offers wider canyon views.  Our turn around spot was Cedar Ridge, 1.5 miles in and 2000’ below the rim.

View of South Kaibab Trail

The trail quickly plunges through the upper layers of the canyon via a series of switchbacks.  It then drops along the edge of the side canyon and then switchbacks again as it drops along a ridge.  All along, care must be used, as much for the mule droppings as the footing.  Although the edge is never too far away, twisted ankles are more of a concern than falls.  At Cedar Ridge, the ridge levels and broadens to a point with spectacular views.  There is an out house, but no water.  Scattered trees provide limited shade.  This spot also was popular with the condors.  We saw several, with two flying close enough overhead to hear the wind in their wings.  Neat. 

Switchbacks at start of trail

Views along South Kaibab Trail

Switchbacks down to Cedar Ridge

Cedar Ridge

Cedar Ridge Panorama

After a rest, snack and photos, we started back up the trail.  The first section of switchbacks and awkward muddy steps proved the most strenuous.  Several stops for water and rest, and we were back up.  The park service says to allow twice as long going up and coming down, but we made it in roughly equal time (probably due to the greater number of photos taken on the descent).  It’s easy to see why there are all the warning about not biting off more than you can chew.  The weather was mostly sunny, with the rim temperature around 60°F, but four of us went through 8 quarts of water in a 3 mile, 90 minute hike.

Dinner was at the Bright Angel Restaurant.  The menu is a little simpler than at the El Tovar, but hits the spot with hungry hikers.  Ends up that I packed too much into the day, so missed the last bus going out towards Hermit’s Rest that I had planned for sunset.  The shots below are from the Hermit's Rest Transfer Station bus stop, just down from Bright Angel Lodge.

Sunset from Hermit's Rest Transfer Bus Stop

Our last morning at GCNP was Easter Sunday.  Nathan had agreed to venture out with me for the 5:50 sunrise.  After the lesson the evening before, we got up in plenty of time and drove to Mather Point.  We found the parking lot closed and folks parked along the road for quite a ways.  After the short walk to the point, we found that it was closed!  I was starting to wonder if we were facing a repeat of the night before.  Luckily, everything turned out fine.  The point was closed (to sightseers) because of an Easter sunrise service.  We, and the other sunrise chasers, went to a nearby point that also offered good views and was still in earshot of the flute player from the sunrise service.

The Sunrise Crowd                                       Canyon in Pre-Dawn

                Day Break (by Nathan)                                   First Rays of Dawn             

Sunrise + 5 Minutes                                         Sunrise + 25 Minutes

Andy & Nathan

Overlook Along Desert View Drive

Last View of Canyon (at Grandview Point)