Andy Altman Photography

Notes from April, 2006 Trip to Central Arizona to Southern Utah

05/28/07

The Trip to and from Bryce

After breakfast and packing, we left the Grand Canyon, heading north to Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah.  The Colorado River runs for 350 miles  without a vehicle crossing, so you must travel quite a bit east or west to get north.  We drove east to Cameron, then north on 89 to Page.  In the scenic section to Page, the road stair steps up and up.  A cliff will be followed for miles, then the road will cut up through the cliff to another level section.  Soon the next cliff face will be reached, the road will follow it for more miles and repeat.

Photos from the Drive between Cameron and Page, Arizona
(taken from moving car by Hope)

                                                     by Mark

We crossed the Colorado at Page, just below the Glenn Canyon Dam.  The bridge gives a good (but quick) view of the Glenn Canyon Dam and Marble Canyon below.  We made a short stop at the visitor’s center at the north side of the bridge.  It contains exhibits about the dam and Lake Powell.  By exiting through the back, you get for a closer look at the dam and bridge.  To get a sense of the massive size of the dam (587' above the river, 1560' long), take a look at the trucks at the far base in the linked larger photo of the dam.  The level in Lake Powell has been on a downward trend since 2000 due to drought.  The level in the photo below is about 120' below full, causing problems for boaters (marinas and boat ramps have had to be moved) but opening sections of side canyons, beaches and features that haven't been seen in decades.  Note the "bath rings" in the lake photo.

Glenn Canyon Dam

Lake Powell

The drive on Rt. 89 from Page to Kanab remained scenic, but different.  The colorful cliffs were further away and the terrain a little flatter.  After Kanab, the road starts to climb through valleys (sometimes broad, sometime narrower) toward Bryce.  Be sure to keep the gas tank and belly full since stops are few and far between.

As you you near Bryce, a ridge appears to your right with interesting colors in eroded sections.  This is the same layer that gives Bryce Canyon National Park, located on the opposite side of the ridge, its characteristic colors.  As you leave the main road and start heading east to Bryce on Rt. 12, you get a taste of what's to come as you drive up Red Canyon.

                  Hoodoos at Red Canyon Park              One of the two "tunnels" in Red Canyon, by Hope

If you look at a map of the region, you'll notice that there is an unpaved shortcut between Bryce and Page - Cottonwood Canyon Road.  It cuts about 50 miles of the drive, but not knowing what to expect, we skipped it on the way up.  While at Bryce, we found out that it probably would take about the same time to drive, but was highly recommended due to the wild and beautiful terrain it crosses - "just don't try it after a rain".  Since it had been dry, we decided to take it on our return trip south. 

Cottonwood Canyon Road runs 47 washboard and occasionally rutted miles.  Sections are steep, narrow and twisted, but most cars should be able to make it (although by driving slowly).  It's easy to see why the we were warned about wet weather.  Several creek crossings and numerous washes crossing the road could quickly get impassible.  There are many areas worth exploring.  We stopped at Grosvenor Arch and Cottonwood Wash Narrows.  Grosvenor Arch is 17 miles south of Cannonville.  There is a picnic area at the parking lot.  The arch is very short, flat walk from there.  The arch is actually a double, with the smaller, second arch against the cliff face.

          Grosvenor Arch                     by Nathan

The entrance to Cottonwood Wash Narrows is not marked, but the entrance is across from a pull off at a unique geographic feature called the Coxcomb.  The Narrows is an easy, interesting 1 mile hike downstream through colorful sandstone walls.  At the end of The Narrows, you are reach the road again, giving the option of retracing your steps through the canyon, or following the road back.

The Coxcomb

Cottonwood Wash Narrows

Just south of Page on Rt. 89, there is a marked drive on the right side (heading south) that leads to the trail head to Horseshoe Bend.  The hike is 0.4 miles each way with a gentle rise in the middle.

Horseshoe Bend of the Colorado

A couple of things that I would have liked to do, but couldn't fit in:

Antelope Canyon - the most popular slot canyon.  Located near Page.

The Wave - permits for this beautiful, but fragile area are limited to 20 per day.  10 are available on the web starting 4 months in advance, but are usually taken in the first day or two.  10 are given out by random drawing, but you have to be at the ranger station (a 3 hour round trip for us) the day before at 9AM to take your chances.  (information) (photos)